How to install vinyl tile, peel n stick floor. Easy!
Hello, this is Dustin the Home Mender, and today we are going to be installing some vinyl tile in a bathroom floor, also known as Peel and Stick Tile. Not the best reputation for this kind of floor. It’s a favorite among homeowners that don’t really want to spend a lot of money, but it does give them a facelift for their bathroom. Let’s get to it.
1 Pull the toilet If you’re installing peel and stick tile in the bathroom, you will need to pull the toilet. Valve off the water at the wall, disconnect the supply line from the toilet and sponge out any water left in the tank and bowl after flushing. Remove the floor bolt nuts and pull the toilet. You can set it in the tub to get it out of the way.
2 Prep your existing floor You can start by pulling any shoe moulding that is trimming out your current floor. If you only have one layer of floor down, you can go over top of it will one more layer, as long as it is clean the peel and stick will adhere to it. Any more floors than 1, they should be pulled. After you pull the existing floor, you can install ¼” luan to give the peel and stick a smooth surface to stick to. I wouldn’t try to do it without it if your floor is at all deteriorated. It is not going to yield pleasant results. If you are putting luan down and need a seam in it, try not to put it next to the toilet. You can secure the under payment with 1 ½” ring shank nails. Nail it about every 8” and make sure any seams are tight and secure.
After your luan is nailed off, do a little walk around test just to make sure I don’t have any areas lifting or any loose areas. Now some flooring guys may tell you that you need to put a skim coat of floor leveler in between the seams of the Luan. Even with sheet vinyl, I haven’t found that it’s really important.
3. Layout the floor Laying out your floor is important. You don’t want to haveless than six inches of tile near the edges. For example, if your floor is 6’3” don’t start with a full tile and end up with a 3” rip. Ideally you’ll want to split the difference and start with about a 7 ½” tile. Pick your straightest wall or the bathtub and start running the floor.
4 Peel and stick Some tile is directional, which means it needs to be layed at a certain direction for the pattern to come out looking right. Chevk for an arrow on the back of your tile and if so, lay them pointing the same direction. Go ahead and peel off your back. Make sure the sides are straight before you stick it to the floor. Lay the adjoining tiles together. When you get to a cut, ( as around the toilet) you can leave the back on it, lay it up there and mark it, score it with a knife, then break it off. Then you can peel and stick.
And, of course, make sure your cut side goes to the wall. Full tile needs factory edges to butt to.
It’s also a good idea to plan your seems so it doesn’t break right on the seams of your luan. . Now, when you get to the door jamb, measure the piece and let it run underneath the threshold, just about a quarter or a half inch,, then ly it up there and draw the shape of your door jamb. You could also use a sweet profile gauge which crates the crazy cut for you, and you trace it on to your tile. As long as you get it pretty close and uniform, you can caulk that tile to the door casing.
5 Cut and install shoe moulding . Now it’s time to trim out the new floor in shoe moulding. Cut to fit, nail it, then caulk. Ill leave that one to you. Also, you can now set your toilet with a new wax ring. You’ll need that later.
So that’s it. Sweet Peel and stick made easy. I hope you learned something today. And if you did. Don’t forget to subscribe.